WESTERN CYCLADES

Sifnos

Size: 15km x 8
Martian Risk: Slight

Great for beaches, walking and scenery, Sifnos is a very attractive island. All ferries arrive at Kamares in the NW, which has a nice waterfront and a good beach and is as far as most of the few Martians get.

The capital sits on a hilly plateau in the middle of the island; it comprises Apollonia and Artemonas – not twin Greek gods, but two sparkling collections of whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches of great charm. The excellent island bus service to all the beaches and villages fans out from here, with buses running as late as midnight between the capital and Kamares. The capital is also usually the starting point for walks and treks which are locally organised for visitors, using the many mule-tracks and other paths criss-crossing the island. At the extreme north of the island is the tiny fishing port of Heronissos, a glorious quiet spot for lunch.

On the east coast the amazing village of Castro, perched like a sentinel on the rocks, is a delight to wander round. Further south are the two bays of Faros and Apokofto, flanked by Faros village and the delicate monastery of Chrysopighi, athwart its peninsula. Faros village is miniscule, but has a narrow stepped main street flanked by houses and the odd shop and taverna on the way to the beaches. The best village view is from our Anofaros Studios.

Just south of Faros lies the long sweep of sand that is Platys Gialos, arguably the island’s finest beach. There’s little development, just small pensions and rooms, including Angeliki’s near the far end.

On the west coast, is the horseshoe-shaped bay of Vathi, another wonderful sheltered stretch of sand with a tiny village with a toy church on the toy quayside at the far end, supported by a couple of tavernas. A perfect lotus-eating destination

Sifnos: Platys Gialos beach from the other end

Getting there

The gateway airport is Athens. For Kea head south to nearby Lavrion – it is not served from Piraeus; take the bus or hire your car, drive to Lavrion, drive on to the ferry and off at the first stop, Kea.  For Kythnos there are ferries from both Lavrion and Piraeus. For Serifos and Sifnos there are fast ferries from Piraeus.

This group has always been very popular with the Greeks themselves, with most tourists traditionally limiting themselves to Sifnos, the largest, though Serifos is slowing catching up.  Kea and Kythnos are, in our view, conspicuously under-rated and should be on every Greek island enthusiast’s list. We are trying to do our bit! It is curious that this group, the nearest to the mainland and amongst the easiest and quickest to reach, should have remained less visited than their better known neighbours to the east.

Sifnos: general view of Vathi

Sifnos: Vathi village and beach

Sifnos: in ancient Castro

Sifnos: Hersonissos, northern tip of island

Sifnos: Chryssopigi bay with monastery, taverna & beach

Sifnos: Faros village, with Anofaros Apartments on the ridge

Price Guide

ACCOMMODATION

Hotel The Flowers, Apollonia

A hotel of great character, quietly situated near the centre with wonderful views across to Paros and other islands. The free-form pool is shaded by trees and equipped with loungers and the bar is nearby. You can relax in style and comfort here.
Cat B superior; pool with jacuzzi, internet, air-con, TV, phone, mini-fridge, safe-box, hair-dryer, veranda. B&B.

Seasons
Peak 14/7-29/8
High 1/7-13/7
Mid 1/6-30/9
Low 1/4-31/10

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Anofaros Apartments, Faros

Airy position overlooking the village – sea view from most rooms. Studios, two bedroom apts with/without living room, all with kitchenette.
TV, air-con ,coffee machine, balc/veranda. S/C 2-6 pers.

Seasons
High 13/7-25/8
Mid 6/7-1/9
Low 1/4-31/10

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Takis Apartments, Vathy

On the beach, next to the taverna at its far end. The studios have three single beds (apartment has twin + twin sofas in living room), kitchenette and large balconies.
Air-con. S/C 2-4 pers.

Seasons
High 7/7-31/8
Mid 18/6-9/9
Low 12/5-20/10

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Angeliki’s, Platys Yalos

Angeliki's: third building from left behind trees

On the beach near the end of the road and bus to town. Shady terrace overhangs the beach. Simple, but clean and nice.
TV, fridge, air-con, balc. RO.

Seasons
High 1/7-31/8
Mid 15/6-15/99
Low 1/5-31/10

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