WESTERN CYCLADES

Serifos

Size: 10km x 11
Martian Risk: Slight

Serifos is an island of lovely beaches, mountains and a stunning chora with views. The moment you step off the ferry, you are in the midst of local life – the village in front of you, a long sweep of Livadiou beach to your right and the much quieter Livadakia beach to your left five minutes away on foot over a small bluff. Blinking protectively over the bay is the jumble of brilliant white houses of the hill-top chora.

Serifos: panorama of the bay from the Chora

All our accommodation is right on the beach. With bars and tavernas (and some night life if you choose Livadiou) on the doorstep, you hardly need shoes, let alone transport. If you want a change from Livadakia Beach, head south for two more; if you want a change from Livadiou, walk 2km north and you will be rewarded by a luscious swathe of sand and a tempting taverna at Psili Ammos.

Serifos is a perfect island for exploring by scooter or car. It is very hilly and the views down to dozens of wide, usually deserted, swathes of golden sand are inviting. The best are perhaps in the SW corner at Ganema, Koutala and Megalo Livadi, most of them with tavernas. If you make a circuit taking in at least part of the north, you will eventually see the stunning panorama of the citadel-like chora before you, backed by the horseshoe Livadiou Bay beyond and below. The chora is a delight to explore, so stop off for a coffee before you descend.

Getting there

The gateway airport is Athens. For Kea head south to nearby Lavrion – it is not served from Piraeus; take the bus or hire your car, drive to Lavrion, drive on to the ferry and off at the first stop, Kea.  For Kythnos there are ferries from both Lavrion and Piraeus. For Serifos and Sifnos there are fast ferries from Piraeus.

This group has always been very popular with the Greeks themselves, with most tourists traditionally limiting themselves to Sifnos, the largest, though Serifos is slowing catching up.  Kea and Kythnos are, in our view, conspicuously under-rated and should be on every Greek island enthusiast’s list. We are trying to do our bit! It is curious that this group, the nearest to the mainland and amongst the easiest and quickest to reach, should have remained less visited than their better known neighbours to the east.

Serifos: the jetty-tipped peninsula, with Levadia (L) and Livadakia (R) beaches

Serifos: the Chora, Levadia Bay and distant Sifnos

Serifos: the Chora

Serifos: yet another boring old beach - Koutalaon west coast

Serifos: even better than being on the beach?

Serifos: view across harbour to the main beach (Levadia)

Price Guide

ACCOMMODATION

Pension AB, Livadakia Beach

An old favourite, much up-graded over the years. The beach gate leads you into the front garden with shady restaurant along one side; beyond it are the bedrooms, built like a Cycladic village round a well.
Air-con, TV, fridge, hair-dryer; B&B.

Seasons
High 16/6-10/9
Mid 1/6-30/9
Low 1/4-30/9

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Annas Rooms, Livadiou Beach

Right on the sea front and well past the section with traffic. Clean simple rooms, handy for bars, shops – and the beach.
Fans, fridge; RO.

Seasons
High 1/7-31/8
Mid 1/6-30/9
Low 1/5-31/10

More pictures